Making A Natural Edged Walnut Desk – Part 1/3

Making A Natural Edged Walnut Desk – Part 1/3


Hello there, my name’s Matt Estlea and in
this three part video series I’ll be making this Walnut desk It includes; cable management down the
back, continuous grain over the mitre dovetail keys, and for you ‘wood pun’ enthusiasts, because I know there’s a lot of you out there. A lovely bit of crotch (figuring) at the back So yeah, I’ll be going over the problems
with the old desk the design of this new one The making of this new one and the
installation of it as well. Lots to see, Lots of stuff to do, and… Enjoy! So, this is the desk that I’m going to be replacing. As you can see, it’s tiny. So, I have to work on A3 sketchbooks throughout the year, and like I’ve got an A4 one here and there’s just. No… (Accidentally turns music on) There’s just no room to work on the desk with it. I’ve got a keyboard that’s in the way which I can sort of put up there I cant put it here because this has got all my sketchbook stuff on it and… (Starts breaking things) It’s rubbish So… Oh, that can go down there. But even so, Even with just an A4 sketchbook. It’s.. You put it on there and… There’s just no support for it It has to be replaced. It is annoying me so much. I keep losing stuff down the
side here like the mouse. That just That just goes down like that so… It’s going, it’s going. I’m done with it… The other issue I have is that I’ve got
my pc tower down here and it’s obviously got the airflow grid work on top and
that means all the dust from my room just falls straight into it and there’s
no sort of protection for it. So I’m hoping that I’ll basically built the
desk big enough so that it’ll cover this and maybe make some sort of an area for
this to sit into. Still allow airflow but just try and restrict the dust getting
into it. Because I don’t think… Like if I blew an air gun into there, this whole room would just… *poof* So… That also needs to be addressed. So what you see there is the end of my
bed and I plan to actually build the desk all the way up from this corner, all the way along
and down there. So I’m sort of thinking some sort of natural edge thing. Not entirely sure on the timber. I’ll have to go to the sawmill and decide there and then
what’s gonna work. See if I can get something wide enough because again this desk isn’t
wide enough front-to-back let alone width so I need to work that out at the sawmill Anyway, less chat. Me and Kieren, who’s a guy from work, we’re both off to Surrey Timbers this afternoon which is towards guildford It’s in the UK, sorry for you Americans. But yea, we’re going to see whats available Get some sort of live edge. Hopefully it’ll fit in this area yeah cue the montage… So here’s my catch of the day. All 375 bloody quid of it! But the guys at Surrey Timbers were kind enough to give me a
small discount on it. At least it covered the petrol expenses there and
back! So I can hear you asking this already, Where the bloody hell is he? The is the Basingstoke branch of Axminster Tools and Machinery. I actually work here on weekends. I thought I’d
take advantage of my summer holidays to steal I mean borrow all of their tools
in order to fulfill this project so onto some actual work this is the split at the end of the
board and… I’m not gonna fix it i’m just going to.. I’m going to make a
feature of it so what i’m doing here is… Cutting some
maple… But what I’m going to do with this is create what are called: butterflies or… Bowties? or…. Bowflies? Butterties? Ooh, butterties, that’d be good And these will be installed along the split in the wood and that will actually prevent it splitting any further over time.
That’s achieved through the wedge action of the actual butterties themselves. Im going to call them butterties from now on… You will see what I mean
at some point along this… There you go! You’ll see them now. There you go. So they’re going to
be installed along that crack like that and that prevents it from splitting any
further. So obviously for these to have any effect, they need to be recessed into the
wood. To do that I’m just knifing around them with the Veritas striking
knife. It’s the first time i’ve used it and I must say I’m rather impressed it’s not quite as flimsy as a scalpel
blade which is what I normally use. So I might have to add one to my arsenal at
some point in the future, even though i said i wasn’t going to impulse buy any tools
this year. So after they’re all marked out with a knife I could drill out some of the waste and
this would make it a little bit easier on the router bit and stop it screaming
at me, especially seeing as i’m using in the middle of the store right now I’m sure the customers would be most pleased.
Then to set the depth, all I do is bottom it out on the drilled hole and
then raise the depth stop by five millimeters and this means that when it
comes to plunging the router, it’s going to cut five millimeters deeper that in the drill hole. Obviously creating
a flatter bottom in the process. Now you’ll probably see here that i’m not
using the fitted extraction hood with the router and that’s because once
that’s installed it covers that whole mouthpiece even though it’s see-through
you cannot see anything past it. Especially with dust flying around in there so
instead what I’ve done is I’ve left it off and i’m just going to hold the hoover next to it and that still captures any fine dust within there. The beauty with this
router and it’s pistol grip handles that makes it so much easier to use
one-handed and it’s perfect for jobs like this where you can’t actually get
the extraction hood there and you need to hold the router with one hand So with the router i’m just getting rid
of most of the waste as close as I can to the line. Then what I can do is drop
the chisel into that knife line, which is a great reason as to why you should use a
knife line as opposed to a pencil, because it falls straight into the groove. Then I can
just chop straight back to the outline of the butterfly. What I’m doing here is putting a small chamfer on the bottom each them. That’ll just make it a little
bit easier to locate in the recess Yes, I’m using a chisel in my hands but
I’ve choked up on it by holding it close to the end of the blade so if I
slip it shouldn’t stab me in the hand Well it won’t stab me in the hand. Because I’ve
literally done that hundreds of times and I know how to guard myself against
myself now and then flush it off i’m Then to flush it off, I’m using the Veritas scrub plane with a
heavy camber. That just rips through the material. Then just top it off of the
Lie Nielsen #62 which is a low-angle jack plane and this just works
absolutely beautifully on walnut and maple in particular but very nicely
on other timbers as well. So there’s the result you can see that the dovetail
shape of the keys will prevent that split from expanding anymore and stop my
desk from exploding Yay.

10 thoughts to “Making A Natural Edged Walnut Desk – Part 1/3”

  1. Another fantastic video, I've been watching your 'Cognition' set of videos which I found brilliant, keep them coming.

    BUT this one had me laughing, I shop at the Basingstoke branch of Axminster, and I love the thought of just taking the tools of the shelf to use them!!!! And having the labels still on is priceless. So if you see a bloke walk in with a 6 foot table, it might be me. hehe.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *