How To DIY CPU socket Remove for repair Intel LGA – 388

How To DIY CPU socket Remove for repair Intel LGA – 388


Hi and welcome to my playhouse and today I’m
gonna try something ridiculous. Way back I was playing with a motherboard and this is
the Nexus maximus7 and it has broken CPU pin and I lost the next tech tip trying to fix
the graphic card, disordering the graphics chip from the graphics card and you got to
find some other dude that does this professionally and they went to New York and tried to disorder
a chip and I wanna see if I can get the…. Let’s go to the table and see this.
Here is the case of the motherboard and the motherboard is still in here. Here you have
a nice picture of things here with the motherboard in it and lets just take it out of here and
this it has a missing pin. It’s been a while since I had this open. Let’s see if we can
find it. Right up here on top of my finger, there is the missing pin. So what I want to
do is to remove this CPU socket right in the middle there. Well I’m gonna be making some
equipment to try and do that. I’m gonna try very low budget. If I break this its not a
big deal. Remember its broken as it is, if I break it well it goes from broken to broken.
No problem whatsoever and if I break this really bad, I don’t feel as bad as throwing
it out. So, well nothing is lost, all to gain. So
let’s see, I have the motherboard here and it has the CPU socket. That’s this one, so
I’m gonna try and disorder this by applying heat from my heat gun. Let’s just draw a heat
gun here. That beautiful heat gun 220 volts. We use here and I’m gonna put it down here
right enough to melt the tin inside it. I’m also gonna put a hidden element underneath
it and that’s gonna be running on 12 volts and the idea is to heat this area and only
this area, so I’m thinking of putting a plate underneath here that the motherboard is sitting
on but where the heat can go up and just heat up the CPU and wrap the top here in silver
paper. Wrap that in aluminum foil and see. I got this one from China. This is flungs.
I’ve seen that they use some flungs to disorder stuff, to better have the heat go around and
for disordering iron or tin to better melt. I bought a chord of these. I didn’t get anything
to push it down. I bet this is some industrial thing to mount in a machine so they don’t
need to go. I didn’t think of that and I bough a hidden element 12 volts, 200 watts and that’s
the one that’s gonna be sitting down here feeding up through a square hole in this piece
of whatever that will be generating heat in the bottom of it. The idea is to heat the
bottom of the socket board as much as to nothing melts down there but get the general temperature
as high as possible. So I need to apply as little as possible extra heat from the top.
That’s the idea. If this works I’ll put the links to these things in the description below
so you can go check this out of you wanna try this which I highly recommend you not
to. So I wanna build a stand for this, for the
motherboard to sit on, to mount the heating element on the bottom of it. So I’ve come
out here to my outside workshop where I’ve been cleaning for the last day or so after
doing my ….project and cleaning towels. I still need to wash this down a bit with
some water but I have a lot of equipment here that I needed to put away but I wanna do this
too. I have a piece of 5 foot dry board here. This piece I found was some kind of success.
I’m gonna smash it on top of the motherboard which there’s a little space in on each direction
and stuff like that, so I think we’ll just be using this. This is not foldable and will
withstand several hundred degrees over what I need it to. So we’ll cut a piece of this
out. Cut up a square for the heating element and stuff like that and we will have the beginning
of disordering station for motherboards. I don’t want this to be laying flat and the
motherboard on top of it. I want to raise it a little bit so I have a piece of wood
here and this is ofcourse flammable so we get all the excitement, maybe this video wil
go up in flames. Who knows? I’m going to in each side raise it up like
this. I’m not prepared for that see now I’ll like to remove the metal piece that protects
the socket on the CPU and I drilled it herr from my electric drill just happens to be
the right size so I could actually just use this which I would very much recommend you
not to because there is a lot of power in a thing like this and you have less handle
with how much you are doing so I will recommend a normal screwdriver and just unscrew it like
that. You could also try one of these smaller screwdriver it a little bit of the same, it
also a lot harder to feel how much you are really, how much pressure you are putting
into it, but its better than a big drill like that so let’s just remove this. There is the
socket itself, on the bottom of it, it has another plate that is just sitting right there
so I’m gonna mount this on the plate just for the screws not to disappear. This disappears,
everything disappears at once. And now I can see how big the socket is just aligning with
the hole see if I can find those and there they are, and I wanna make a hole that is
about that size and I have a lot of capacitors on the bottom of it which is really irritating
it would have been nice if they weren’t there cause they could actually just drop down if
I apply too much heat which is kind of a bummer having positioned the instrument here let’s
see how wide it is, it’s four and half centimeters, its not four and a half centimeters but that’s
close enough. So if I measured two centimeters from the hose out here and inside all the
way round, I should be good. I found out this piece of wood that i left over is about two
centimeters wide is a little bit more than two centimeters so I think if I make it cover
the hose.. That wasn’t good enough think we need to add
a little bit more, oh I got that wrong, happily it’s still fixable so I made a new… That
is much closer to four and a half centimeters and its going to not fit. Considering bigger
than the small one so I’m gonna drill a hole in the corner of this and we gonna sort that
out so I have some very old glue bit here and I need to make a finer glue bit that isas
big as the saw. My videos tend to turn into a raiobi commercial so well raiobi tools,
the tools that are almost as awesome as you are and raiobi, call me, that could be yours
its only a matter of millions. See how big this is. Let’s just change 10 millimeters.
We can do that. This is where the raiobi tools come into the
picture and we’ll draw a hole here. Up there, so I’ll
set the motherboard on there. I’ll turn it around, there’s a hole where we can heat up
the processor socket from beneath. So far so good.
The camera ran dry of battery so I’ve been cheating. I’ve been continuing without you.
I drilled this hole right there and I went down to the basement and I got the heating
element. I’ll draw a circle around it, putting it in the middle there and I drilled some
holes for the cores and this hole in the wood is for the wires to come out of like so. That
awesome right? So I’m gonna be attaching these screws and because they go through this piece
of dry wood, I’m gonna test this silicon plastic spacers as well and hopefully they won’t burn.
If they do and the house catches fire, I’m well insured.
So I’ve moved back into the basement but this….I’m not gonna be starting the test with this board
because we only have one of those but we need to power it somehow and over here on the floor
I have some car batteries so I’m gonna take that one actually. This one and we’ll just
attach them and this is why the wire comes outside and this is kind of smart.
So I’ll just connect that. There are some battery terminals out here and would be good
for this. We can just see the battery voltage, should start with that 12.64. That’s perfect.
There we are. Now it should be heating up. I have one of these measuring things set to
Celsius so let’s see. Yeah temperature is going up 38 degrees, 40 ℃. Let’s see how
that goes, I can feel the heat coming up from up here and it’s very warm 120 ℃. I have
a large socket board here from something completely different. I just want to see how hot this
gets on the bottom of it if I lay it down here, so we’ll just put that and give that
a bit of the corners , a bit of time to heat up. Imw gonna put..these are some major big
heating zinc so they would disappear. A lot of heat, I want to examine how this gets.
I have a lid here from a can like this and I’m gonna out the lid underneath the heating
element down there to protect my table. You see that. I put that in there so that I don’t
destroy the table underneath that. It has been running for a while and let’s
just see, temperature up here is rather hot, down here it’s a bit cooler. If we get down
here the heat is not going through it as well so it’s not getting too hot. So that’s probably
okay. Its not hotter than, I can actually have my hand here so thats not….I was actually
expecting a bit more. Well it does actually, yeah it does good. It becomes over 100 ℃ so
it would definitely help and here is my heat gun and it says that at 1000 watts it will
deliver 350 ℃ and 300 liters a minute and position too. It has two settings down here.
It will deliver 550 ℃ at 500 liters ler minute and this is made in the people’s republic
of China so those numbers are not questionable in any way or such but it has this nuzzle
up here which is nice and so but I would like it to be a little more square instead of long
like that. So I’m gonna see if I can change that in some way. Well with a whole lot of
violence this looks a lot better. It’s much much square, not as beautiful but more square
than before. It would be really neat if I could have it just hanging here maybe even
yeah do something. I’ll look into that. With that insane idea i’ve moved outside, I want
the heat gun to be sitting here somewhere so I think I’ll put a stick here and I’ll
put it somewhere probably around there. I don’t need the stick to be that long so I’ll
start by shortening that. Shorter stick and we will put that somewhere. I want it to be
pointing at exactly where the hole for the processor is. I’ll put some wood glue on that
and we will fasten that to here. I’ll put in one screw, screw that.
Now we’ll have our fastening point to put the heat gun so I don’t have to hold it all
the time. That’s more or less wire. Once again on the H-technology equipment has found its
way down into my basement and ofcourse on the edge meaning that its on the edge for
not being technology so I took this piece of scrap wood and I think I want to mount
that on the handle here. So I think that I can have that go up and down if I need to
just by climbing that on. I would take this apart and I’ll put a couple of screw through
it here, maybe there and that would be cool. I’m taking the heat gun apart. It’s really
simple, there’s a heating element here and there’s an engine with a blower and on/off
something. So very simple. I made some lines where this piece of wood goes, need to fill
that out but I’m gonna drill some holes. I’ve been looking at this and I have to avoid this
electronic stuff so I’m gonna be drilling the…we’re drilling the hole board right
now. Well now its attached, a couple of screws
in the handle here and I had to put on some spaces here. Just something from plumbing
work, actually for tightening up your closet and stuff. This is not too shacky, I kind
of like that so putting it back together to that. Perfect right! Got to love that. I have
no idea of this works but let’s go to that. So this is how it looks. It’s actually not
too bad. Ofcourse going to lower this to put more heat on but I need to make sure that
this is the thing that actually want to be disordered and as far as I know that’s where
this flungs come into the picture. Put in some of that on along the edges often should
make the socket release a lot better than those and the heat to go in there. So we have
tried that. Also I need to protect the rest of the system from not overheating this cast
and there is a capacitor right there next to it and I don’t want to blow everywhere
so I need to put on something to protect all of this. Also the plastic here and stuff.
I’ve seen someone use aluminum foil here, I have 2 of those. Also have one which is
kind of better quality and I do believe that I want to use the better quality but I was
also thinking of making a piece of metal that could just go down on top of this and I thought
that maybe a beer can would do good. Sadly enough I don’t have any empty beer cans but
I’m sure there’s a way to fix that so carlsburg please call me.
I have cut a square hole 4.5cm across in the beer can. That was not as branded anymore
but I’m going to bend it a little bit to make it sit better. This way and I mean that way
now i think it will be able to go on down on top of the processor. I’m going to put
this side which has the most protection where all those tiles and stuff is and that would
be nice right. Thats pretty cool actually. I’m pretty happy with that. I still have some
aluminum foil out here to protect some stuff even more but this one is to protect the components
just near to the processor. I have some big metal to protect that. As said earlier, I
bought this flox so we’re going to apply some of that. Just take off the protective cap
here and put this one in, turn that really good and now I don’t have the syringe thing
to go in here but well I’ll just test it and this little screwdriver will fit in there
and I could kind of use it like this. I want to apply that all the way around the socket
down here and see how that goes. Just get some better lighting. This coming out is not
as liquid as I thought it would be. Okay and I think I’ll add it in here as well. I’ve
added a roll on top of it and I think it’s gonna melt and go down into the socket itself
so thats the theory at least. Let’s see how that ends.
In the middle of the processor, there is a component as well and I’ve tried and made
this little thing that would redirect the heat somewhere else. Its also a bit of the
can and I put a piece of tape at the bottom of it just to, a regular mounting paper tape.
It’s not going to burn I think because it’s not going to be hard enough for that but it’s
going to make sure that this component underneath that don’t get too much heat I hope and I
have no idea if this is going to work. I have no idea if any of it is going to work. I’ve
connected the battery over here. I have it on a charger just the 4 and charge over here
to make sure that the battery are equal. So its going to be warming up. It’ll probably
take a while before its warm. Now we can measure the temperature 23. 22. Its not even hot yet
so we’ll let that heat down there and just make sure that the middle tthat is in place
on the bottom. It is getting hot down there 40 ℃, 24 ℃. So we’ll let that heat for
a bit. It has been heating for a little bit and its not very hot up here. It’s about 40
℃ right there, over here not much more. So we’re gonna stop this and we’d see if we
can heat that up. I have this thing for when it becomes hot
so that I can take it out. The flox has already melted down there. That’s kind of cool. Something
is getting hot and there’s a bit of smoke. Its probably the flox. 200 ℃ but its not
going to be as hot down there. Its considerably less. I wonder if I can reach high enough
temperatures. This is only on the low setting and still have the option of having the heat
going closer. It right up there where it should actually be loosening. The plastic is loosening
here at least. It doesn’t seem like we’re reaching high enough temperature, we have
to lower this just a little bit I think. Its not moving at all so the temperature must
now be higher now. So if we have to go to the higher setting. There its loosening. I’ve
removed it, its hot and its damaging my table. You have this below where it says very clearly
you’re not supposed to run it in certain tool and just turn it off. So it has to cool off
a bit on a certain one. Cooling off now so I’m just gonna do that. Well it wasn’t really
that good. This one the socket came off but it has moved things around underneath. Some
of these capacitors has been turning around and its a good thing that I don’t need this
because its broken. The heat was too much for it so it has melted. It hasn’t really
melted but as soon as I use this little thing to get a grip on it, it melted. So there is
definitely some improvement here. I’ll see if I can put those back in order where they
have to go. You can probably see some here that has slided around. I’m just going to
put on the heater on low and move those back into order and I think it was because I took
this off and I was too slow at erm maybe I tipped it like that so I wasn’t able to pull
it up straight so there is room for improvement there. That was a ninja trick. I turned on
the heater and I pushed the capacitors around with a screwdriver and just align them up
again. It took a bit of fiddling to get the temperature right I had to lower it pretty
low so it was a bit hard to get the screwdriver in here. Let’s just show you that setup and
we have the lights coming in from behind so its hard to see anything. This was how that
was done. The socket has been detached that’s for sure. So I’ve removed the aluminum foil
here and its still kind of very toasty and I’ll just be taking some photos. I’m gonna
go up and post those on my Google plus for all of you that are following me on there.
I would call this a kind of a success. Its probably not as I wouldn’t call this easy
but its not going to be as easy to put the new socket on there. I haven’t thought of
that yet but I wanted to see if I could remove this before I ordered a new one. This thing
was the tape that was on here. It has another new brownish colour, that’s probably the flox
that has gone on into the tape. Improvements I would probably make it so that this would
stay down there so I would have to make it a little bit smaller and maybe put some weight
on it so that when I take this socket up. I’m not planning on doing this again but when
I take this up it would not move this piece around. I’m pretty sure thats what moved the
capacitors out of the way. Its still toasty this heat zincs over here they contain quite
a bit of heat. I’ve already burned myself a couple of times and all the capacitors here
on the bottom of the print is quite alright. Another thing that would probably be good
to improve is this thing. I don’t think it is hard enough so I would probably like to
go maybe just put in a little bit more voltage to have it. Its actually still quite a bit
of heat coming out there. I have to test it but otherwise I tthink this is a huge success.
Well I actually think this was cool as hell, awesome right. So I can go and clean this
up or I should go and order a new socket for this one from China. I’m going to go and buy
one there although it would be here in like a month or so. I have lots of time to brush
up on how to put this back in. Thank you very much for watching my videos.
Do subscribe to my channel so that you can see me again. Check out the description for
these small things that I’ve been using here if you want to go do something as stupid as
this yourself and join me over at Google plus where you can now see the pictures of this
stupid experiment. Have a nice day. Bye bye.

59 thoughts to “How To DIY CPU socket Remove for repair Intel LGA – 388”

  1. Morton, order some high temp kapton tape. the generic from china works fine. Cover the caps and stuff with it and it will help protect the parts. use some solder wick to remove the solder bridges on the pads. yes the difficult part will be soldering the new socket. temperature control will be imperative, too low and not all the joints will flow, too high and the plastic will melt. You can buy a "reflow station" for under $50 from china and it has a soldering iron station too. I finally got one and use it All the time and love it!

  2. Morton, I'm fairly confident this would have worked better with a bigger beer can 😉

    Great video as always.

  3. nice to see the basement again been a while lol, noticed the aa battery backups still there too…. how long did it take to remove it etc.

    wish you luck hope it all works out for you.

  4. it could go waaay worse, so i'll call it success 😉
    but the next part will be more difficult.
    first of all i will suggest not to put there that central "protective" part. heat couldn't do much damage to those caps, but having that thing there will cause you much pain !
    now it's time to clean PCB from the rest of solder. if you remove too much of it, with soldering wick for example, it might get tricky to make new solder balls attach to board. just go around with soldering iron and remove all excess solder.
    you could watch some of process on my channel if you like.
    i'm not doing it "professionally", but i was able to fix some boards when i need to 😉

  5. I think that a piece of fiberboard would be a much better insulator for the caps in the middel of the socket?

  6. Such a waste of energy! You could have easily made some delicious fish or steak while melting the socket under that foil!

  7. I didn't think you'd actually try it, but congratulations on the effort; that was impressive. Can't wait for part 2!

  8. Hello Mr Hjorth! This might be a stupid question but is there a cheep good server that can have a "gaming" gpu inside?

  9. To solder that socket you need a BGA rework station.With heat gun you don't make a good job.Please,stop using flux from China,use real flux (http://www.tme.eu/en/details/rf800_100/fluxes/ag-termopasty/topnik-rf800-100ml/ ) cheep,good and it is made in Poland

  10. when you receive the new socket it comes with a cover. does covers support high Tempe turns and will help with the caps I. the middle I would recommend you to try to find a way to increase the board temperate a bit more so that the solder reflow better now the big question is if you are going to use solder paste or solder balls. either way I am guessing you're going to need a SMD template of that component to do so also find some kapton tape that is much more helpfull I have done a similar setup for a company I used to work using a heat gun , a broken infra red oven to heat the PCB and a microwave Control panel to set the time. I would start the infrared heating element first bring the PCB to a set Tempe ture then use the heat gun to reflow the component it has work great for me to reflow GPUs but I have never been brave enough to do a full replacement in this DIY matter
    thanks for the encouragement I must try this Lol

  11. So…. will you be getting a new socket for this mobo from China?

    https://youtu.be/Y6DK9gn5ECM another cpu socket replement video thought u might like to watch it.

  12. If you want that heater to be more effective, you could seal the base of your makeshift rework station and add a small fan to push air past the heater and up towards the board. That should make it more efficient than it is now.

  13. You're the tech version of Paul Timberman skit from MadTV aka fuggin hilarious guy! I wish I could see you have a drink with Louis Rossman.

  14. Hahahahahh the heat gun modification got me laughing good
    "Now that's a bit more square"

    Also that's the most extensive kludge I've ever seen, good job!

  15. first you damaged the board tracks while removing the socket because the temperature was not that accurate to melt the lead , second you should have at-least had set the tracks in proper place , third you didn't aligned the new socket properly before giving heat … and the result is in front of us

  16. You know you can get a cheap Chinese solder rework station for not silly money. Also you need the proper tools to raise and lower the socket onto the board. The BGA pads don't look too bad but you should reball them (you need to really desolder with solder braid and lead solder). Also I think you pulled the socket too quickly (you need to let the solder flow for a moment or so but your on the right track before lifting it). Also when lifting it, you need to do it in a uniformed way.

  17. FYI if there aren't any pins missing you can just straighten them out and it should work again.
    I did that with a mobo I found in the trash for my friends pc and it's been working great every since.

  18. They should make the motherboard socket removable, like a sliding upwards graphics card, that way we can put any other socket into the same motherboard and be more durable and upgradable

  19. Can you tell me the temperature in celcius degrees from your heating element in the bottom please ? Thank's a lot. Love-Love !

  20. solder the damn processor directly to the board…. why not… if you've already fucked the socket… i used a lot of processors this way in broken socket mbs, they're much easier to mount than the freaking socket plus you get some more stability and overclock performance due to the low loss in impendance of no socket.

  21. Omg dude patience is key! Stop pulling on the base. Poke the base of it if it doesn't move don't pull on it.

  22. cool vid. im now debating trying it on my msi h170 board i got kicking about. cant break it anymore like ya say. unless i burn house down ha 😛

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