Building the Ultimate Computer Desk – Part 2

Building the Ultimate Computer Desk – Part 2

So it appears my two-part episode is going to turn into a three,four or Maybe five part episode on this desk project [in] this episode. I’m going to walk you through [how] I went about Determining the surface material I was going to use for the desk So originally I was going to use sheets of laminate like this, but I really didn’t care for any of the colors or designs They had at the hardware store plus the prices were pretty high and I would need at least two sheets You [know] me. I said I was going to break with convention I began to wonder if it might [be] possible to use vinyl tiles like these After all this looked further my goal of making the desk repairable So I’ve managed to damage the desk top of just about every desk or work bench I’ve ever owned usually I either do it with a soaring iron over the knife or something like [that] because I do a lot of Projects, and one of the great things about using a tile like this is that if I were to damage a piece I could pry it up And put a new one down and repair it plus these are like 68 cents apiece, so I decided to buy a few just to go ahead and experiment with okay, so You can glue these things down to a top surface, and that’s more us what they’re designed [for] because they’re floor house But what I’ve tried to glue them on especially [like] strips on to the side? For the trim on a desk I found that the [pieces] just wouldn’t stick with the glue that is designed for these and I’m guessing that’s because The glue that’s designed for these is designed more or less to keep them in place from scooting around and not so much designed to be a permanent adhesive and It’s not like I could just go online and find instructions on how to do this because it’s a very Unconventional thing to do so I had to do some experimentation on my own various people had suggested different adhesives to solve the problem so I decided to perform a test with three different types epoxy silicone and Contact cement I glued three strips onto an edge of some scrap board and let them all cure for 24 hours The next day I tried to pull them off by hand the good news is that all three Glues were strong enough to At that so next I tried prying them off with a screwdriver with a lot of effort [I] was able [to] chip off some pieces of the epoxy version the same held true with the silicone however I was able to remove the entire strip with the contact cement So that left either of the other two choices for me to work with Okay, so the next thing I had to do was a larger scale test now I decided to take one of the little Triangular shelves that are going to be hidden up under the desk and use them for an experiment now these shelves need to have some kind of surface on them because if you just paint them and you put computer equipment on them over time if the computer equipment will Stick to the paint so I definitely wanted to tile them with something so I thought I’d go ahead and Use these and try a full-scale experiment with one of the shelves if I could make these work on the [shelf] Then I knew they would be suitable for the main desk top of the desk So the first thing was to cut some strips of Vinyl [I] Decided to use the silicon since I had plenty of it [leftover] from my [tests] I spread it evenly on the wood and then I spread it evenly on the back of the vinyl strips [I] applied the [strip’s] to all three shelves and let them set overnight to cure once cured I used a knife to cut off some of the excess And then I followed that up with a file to grind it down to be even with the wood surface I Was decently satisfied with the appearance so next I went ahead and cut out the top surface pieces and made sure they all lined up Then it was time for the glue. This is the same glue that didn’t work very well for the small strips But it seems to work okay for larger pieces. Which is what it was designed for Once the wood was coated it was time to put on the tile Once the glue set up I filed down some of the excess tile to get everything to line up Unfortunately my cut of the wood was not perfectly straight, and that’s the reason there was some overhang Then I used the file to round off the edges of the tile After all if this were [the] top of a desk at one a nice smooth surface where my wrists [would] be making contact the desk Once I got the shape back I came back with sandpaper and made it really smooth, and then I cleaned it all up I’m quite happy with the surface It looks kind of rough But it’s actually very smooth and glossy feeling so once I was the vinyl tile would work I went to a flooring store and look through their samples, and I picked out a deep blue colored tile and ordered it I Think this will make the top of the desk very beautiful Once I knew what color the top would be I had to pick a color for the sides of the desk So [I] went back to sketchup, and I played around and I decided on a dark gray I’ve already started applying primer to the desk and should be painting it soon. So here’s the finished shelf and This is where [I’ll] meet the back of the desk and this is the front section now This this would mimic the area where I would be putting my wrists if this were a regular desk And this feels really nice And you [know] some people had questioned that well if you use tiles, [you] wouldn’t be able to write on The desk because the lines were the divisions between the tiles would be a problem with a pen now Not that I do a lot of writing. This is going to be a computer desk, but interestingly enough You can see the division between the [tiles] if you look really closely But when you run your fingers across it you really can’t even feel it it is amazing How glossy and smooth the surface is and how well the tiles line up? So I really don’t think writing would be a problem [even] if you wrote over the division between the tiles So I just wanted to say there’s a couple [of] other advantages to consider on these tiles First of all they’re much cheaper than using the regular laminate. I mean these are about 68 cents apiece but also They’re easier to bring home It does not require a pickup truck because they just come in a little box And I always have to borrow a pickup truck because I don’t have one so that’s kind of an important thing but also um the other thing is if you’re not an expert And you’re prone to making mistakes when you’re building something Well if you happen to screw up one of these tiles while you’re building your desk no big deal Just you know grab another one, but if you have a hundred dollar sheet of laminate And you screwed up what you’re putting it on there? Well, then that’s going to be a big problem [alright], so that about concludes it for this episode Hang around another few days. I’ll have for you

100 thoughts to “Building the Ultimate Computer Desk – Part 2”

  1. I have heard you can run an iron over a tile you bonded with contact cement to release it… Haven't tried it myself but, maybe worth trying

  2. i would have go with automotive paint, 1st urethane base primer, 2nd blue base coat and 3rd clear coat + matting agent = anti scratch …

  3. Some folks said writing over the tiles would be a problem because of the joints? oh for crying out loud, just put something underneath. You DON'T HAVE TO write directly on the table surface anyway, such trivial minor nit picking nonsense, NOT even an issue.

  4. Proper VCT glue should be spread out with a glue trowel and then allowed to "flash" and be dry to the touch before installing the tile to the surface. This would work for vertical and horizontal surface and creates a strong bond.

  5. I love 8 bit guy
    your episode on
    using old iPhone for 2 weeks
    and episode on laptops for dos gaming
    are my favourite

  6. you sound kind of like Daniel from Tosh.0. Anyway I like the way your going with this and can't wait to see the specs of the finished product.

  7. Actually you can go online to find out what the best kind of glue for a set of materials is. Just google this is that.

  8. Surely of the idea is to have a surface you can replace then the contact cement was the clear winning? How will you get the other pieces off that are stuck down harder?

  9. The moment I heard you say someone said something about writing, the first thought that went through my mind was that person should learn to use more than one sheet of paper to begin with… It prevents an uneven surface from causing a problem as well as giving a softer surface to work so the wrist won't eventually be rubbed raw.

  10. If you have a router you can probably level the overhanging parts of those tiles, flush with the wood.

  11. I don't know how it works in the U.S, but here a laminated sheet of chipboard costs cca 16€/m2, and you don't have to cut it yourself, you can order it in any desired size and shape (and decor).

  12. Your VCT tile idea is pretty neat.

    I used to work at a sheet metal shop and we always glued down a sacrificial piece of 1/16" or 1/8" thick hardboard on our bench tops. We would re-skin the tops every year or two as they wore out and became filled with drill holes. Obviously not suitable for an office desk, but very nice for soldering stations and work benches.

  13. The edges of the board you used are waaay more porous than the top and bottom. I would have texted the adhesives on the flat side, not the edge.

  14. Wait, I thought you would want to use the contact cement precisely because it would be easier to pry off a tile in case you damaged it and wanted to replace it.

  15. You should buy a PS1, since it is a very good console of the '90s and it also has the best games like : Gran Turismo 1 and 2, Need for Speed SE to High Stakes, Sonic the Hedgehog [yeap u knew it] and much more.

  16. Surely if one of your main goals is repairability, and the contact cement held strong but could be pulled up whole, that would be a better choice?

  17. when your using contact adhesive on an edge of particalboard or MDF you should primer it. Should also available at the same store as the adhesive,
    Also Contact adhesive should be applied with a fine Glue trowel, (not sure if this is named correctly). apply it on Both of the pieces you want to glue and let that dry as described on the bucket. Sticks istant and better! Roughing up the Vynil wil also increase strenght. i'm aware that you want to be able to replace a piece if it get damaged but with a heat gun it should come loose. Alternative was using melaminated partical board With a print those are cheaper as a sheet of laminate, but less resiliant. i Don't want to be rude i just want to give some info. 4-5 years later.

  18. I dont know if anyone else has pointed this out but that contact cement wasnt set yet. if it was you wouldnt have gotten those stringy bits when you pulled the tile off

  19. It's a shame I'm not in to computers, because if you made such good videos on furniture making, I can only imagine what your other content is like!

  20. Its funny seeing nerds try to do MAN stuff! Use the friggen glue made for vct tile! If you want to repair it use a heat gun it comes right up! USE THE GLUE MADE FOR IT! I know this is a old video but STILL!!!

  21. this series is giving me some great ideas.
    I'm going to try and clear out my closet of all the useless junk, and get some smaller shelves to put in there. Then I'll get rid of my dresser, and desk which is basically just a glorified TV stand, and I'll finally quit it with the wireless keyboard, and the TV as a monitor, and go for a more traditional PC gaming set up.

  22. I guess you dont do allot of cleaning and dusting. If a coputer is gonna stick to paint, whoa…thats gonna stay put for a long time, yeah.

  23. Was there a clear specification or mention that the tiles you bought did not contain asbestos? I would never assume there is no asbestos in flooring materials and sand them. No easy to come by PPE can protect you against the dust generated by sanding asbestos containing products. Just a thought.

  24. "I chose floor tiles so that I can remove a damaged tile for repair later… so for adhesive i'm choosing the stuff that's practically impossible to ever, EVER get off should I need to…"


    Alright. So I was faced with this exact situation not long ago. I chose contact cement to glue tiles on a wall so that I could get them off later without murdering the wall. The CC is holding up wonderfully to everyday use and I'll be able to remove them when I need to.

  25. VCT tile make a great bench top; I’ve topped most of my garage benches. Run a 3/4” trim board in the front glue the tile down from the back then use a flush trim router bit to cut the tile on the front. Or glue tile on the front first. There are some nice acrylic hard coatings that work great on top. CA glues, high viscosity ones, work well to hold small pieces down and gives you 30 seconds to position them.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *